A Toronto couple traded Bay Street for beach life in Panama. Here’s why this surfing hot spot should be on your travel wish list

In 2019, Anthea Stanley and Ryan Somes, who both worked on Bay Street in Toronto, packed up their lives and two kids, and moved to Panama to reinvent themselves as boutique hoteliers.

Now their closest town is Santa Catalina, once a tiny fishing village and now a tiny surfing village. Without even a gas station or ATM, it’s about 5.5 hours by car from Panama City. “Getting to paradise takes time,” says Stanley, with a laugh.

Fifteen minutes from the village, you’ll find the duo’s new retreat in Lago Bay: Catalina’s Hideaway, complete with four casitas, a jungle tree house and the Bellwoods Inn (a nod to their former Toronto neighbourhood). They’ve cultivated a boho esthetic with neon signs, wall art by Elise Goodhoofd, and mirrors by Michelle Miller, who reclaims local beach waste to create one-of-a-kind pieces.

There’s also an on-site restaurant called Sobremesa (one of the rare spots in Santa Catalina where you’ll find vegan and vegetarian options beyond tomato-sauced pasta), along with a general store, 200 metres of beachfront, and a DJ booth for good times, day or night.

Despite the pandemic, Stanley and Somes have been able to fill their hotel with friends, family and local tourists. As global travel resumes, adventure-seekers will no doubt be lured by Santa Catalina’s glorious sand, surf and sunsets — and lack of big-city trappings. That’s what drew the two in the first place. Here, the couple shares a few favourites to add to your future itinerary.

Learn to surf at Estero Beach and the Oasis Surf Camp. Santa Catalina’s world-class waves are too stellar to remain a secret, and this beach is an ideal starting point to get acquainted. “Estero Beach is the best intermediate/beginner break there is here,” says Somes. “It’s a big bay, it has a sand bottom, and it’s not too deep. You can learn at your comfort level, or paddle out further for the bigger waves.” Oasis Surf Camp will rent out boards, or book time with an instructor if you want more tutelage to perfect your technique.

Dine on gourmet fare at Ai Mamita. Villa Coco, another boutique hotel, is owned by husband-and-wife duo Tuza and Olivia, and Ai Mamita is their charmingly rustic restaurant. The menu includes fresh ceviche, ribs topped with homemade sauces, and caprese salad, served under a canopy with draped curtains and string lights to illuminate nighttime dining. Enjoy a meal or snack by the pool, then take a walk along Villa Coco’s beach.

Get a treat at Sugar Mama’s Cafe: A tiny spot with swings and only six tables, this is the place to grab coffee, takeaway sandwiches and treats before you head out for the day. “Carolina, the owner, makes wicked cheesecakes, and vegan and gluten free desserts,” notes Stanley.

Catch the “show” at Hotel Santa Catalina: If you’re looking to watch the most daring surfers do their thing, head to the patio at this hotel. You’ll have practically a front-row seat to marvel at the athletes taking on La Punta, arguably the most legendary break in Panama, if not all of Central America. “Go here and grab a cheap beer, and watch the guys take on 10- or 20-foot waves,” says Somes.

Go wildlife watching in Coiba National Park. Santa Catalina is the closest access point, by boat, for Coiba National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that’s known for white sand beaches, turquoise waters and some of the best diving in the world. The park is also noted for incredible biodiversity, and there’s an underwater mountain chain that connects to the Galapagos. Humpbacks can be spotted, especially from late July to early September, and whale sharks float by from late November to early March. You can also charter a boat to Cebaco Island (across from Catalina’s Hideaway), or find your own secluded island to swim and hang out on during the day. “We really feel like we’re on the edge of the earth here,” says Stanley, “because there’s nothing around us.”

The Star understands the restrictions on travel during the coronavirus pandemic. But like you, we dream of travelling again, and we’re publishing this story with future trips in mind.