A legendary hotelier puts a contemporary twist on the traditional ryokan in Japan

Out on Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, Azumi Setoda — the first outpost from the new hotel brand Azumi — opened their doors this spring to much anticipation. The reason for all the excitement: It was co-founded by Adrian Zecha, who is practically revered within travel and hospitality circles as the brains behind the ultra-luxe Aman Resorts.

Located on the remote island of Ikuchijima, which is known for its lemon production and its scattering of large-scale, open-air sculptures, Azumi Setoda is a contemporary take on a traditional Japanese ryokan (inn). Zecha reportedly became enamoured with ryokans while living in Tokyo during the 1950s and wanted his version to have that same family-run feel, but with the perks of a modern hotel.

Here, his vision involved transforming a 140-year-old residential compound — which once belonged to a prominent local family — with Kyoto-based architect Shiro Miura. A six-metre-high cedar fence (known as a kakine) encloses the garden and is meant to promote a sense of harmony on the grounds.

Inside, you’ll find four two-storey duplexes and 18 peaceful suites (from $775). Decor is minimal, with traditional shoji screens and bespoke chairs and tables, which were custom-made by local woodworker Doi Mokkou. Each room boasts a cubic cypress tub that offers views of a mossy private garden or balcony.

The on-site restaurant is designed to be a communal experience, with only large group tables throughout the room, although there are also three private dining rooms as an alternative. The seasonal menu focuses on local seafood and produce, and draws inspiration from the region’s history as a shipping hub — and stopover for Silk Road trade — with a sprinkling of Persian spices. Guests can sample the multi-course omakase, or dishes like octopus sashimi or steamed meat dumplings with lotus root.

Azumi Setoda continues the ryokan tradition across the street at Yubune, the hotel’s bathhouse (which also has their own selection of small guest rooms). Here, you can enjoy an afternoon of hot soaks, salt baths and sauna de-stressing. The sento is decorated in tiled mosaics by artist Mai Miyake, capturing the vivid ocean blues and natural landscapes of the island. Yubune is open to both hotel guests (complimentary access is included) and area residents, and features a communal lounge serving drinks and snacks to encourage immersion in the local culture.

The Star understands the restrictions on travel during the coronavirus pandemic. But like you, we dream of travelling again, and we’re publishing this story with future trips in mind.